I recently got asked for a camera recommendation for someone who might want to get into photography. I view this question as a pretty simple one — it doesn’t matter which camera you use. Photography is the art/science of capturing light, and almost any camera will do a decent job of it. I remember owning a plastic Flintstones camera as a kid (120 film format), it took acceptable photos. I’m pretty sure the limit of any photographic device (including the camera in my phone) is the person using it.
That said, people always want more detailed recommendations, so here’s my advice. If you really want to get into photography, start with a fixed-focal length camera. Zooms add too many variables (and design comprises) to be useful when you’re first starting out. Smaller and lighter is better; the best camera in the world doesn’t do any good sitting on a shelf at home. Finally, get something with at least one manual dial (preferably two).
With those criteria, I’d say the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF2 is a reasonable choice. It uses the micro-4/3 lens system, but with adapters you can even tack on older manual lenses from a wide variety of manufacturers. It’s small considering it can take multiple lenses, and it even has a dial for setting shutter or aperture. The biggest problem is that it’s not out yet (but it’s due any day now). The previous version (Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF1) is available and, except for being slightly bulkier, is probably an even better choice.
Another camera I’d consider is the the Ricoh GR Digital III, or if you absolutely have to have a zoom lens, then the Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX5. Both are compact cameras (they fit in a jacket pocket), and have the fastest lenses going for their feature set. Fast lenses mean you won’t have to depend on the built-in flash as often (and that’s a good thing).
If you must have a DSLR, there’s no hope for you. At least buy a Canon…that way you won’t be borrowing my Nikon lenses. Truth be told, there’s not much difference to talk about between the two, but for whatever reason my friends keep buying the Nikons (even though I keep recommending the Canons). I hear good things about the Nikon D3100 and the Canon Rebel XS (EOS 1000D). But really you have to ask yourself why you’re going the DSLR route, unless you already have (expensive) film lenses you want to use with these cameras. If you do, buy whichever camera matches your lenses best.
No matter which camera you choose, the best upgrade is making the photog better. Check out Strobist for how to fix-up yours.
I think the controls on Nikon are more intuitive, which is why I went with Nikon a few years ago when Canon had better sensors and more lens choices.. Now it seems like Nikon is a little bit ahead on all fronts (unless you want a 5D MkII). Lens wise, the new 35/1.8 is excellent and cheap. I kinda wish a lot of the new Nikon lenses were not so expensive, but then again, I just got back from Patagonia with my D90, Tokina 11-16/2.8, 35/1.8, and cheapo 70-300G, and the only thing lacking was maybe a bit of sharpness and contrast on the tele. Almost all of the “better” lenses would have added too much weight. Micro-4/3 seems like it would have been a good fit for that trip, too.
Still, for a truly (jeans-)pocketable camera, I like the Canon S95… Great controls and image quality for such a small camera. It’s great as a DSLR companion if you want to use a prime but maintain flexibility, or for your companion to use while you’re on the big camera.
I think the controls on Nikon are more intuitive, which is why I went with Nikon a few years ago when Canon had better sensors and more lens choices.. Now it seems like Nikon is a little bit ahead on all fronts (unless you want a 5D MkII). Lens wise, the new 35/1.8 is excellent and cheap. I kinda wish a lot of the new Nikon lenses were not so expensive, but then again, I just got back from Patagonia with my D90, Tokina 11-16/2.8, 35/1.8, and cheapo 70-300G, and the only thing lacking was maybe a bit of sharpness and contrast on the tele. Almost all of the “better” lenses would have added too much weight. Micro-4/3 seems like it would have been a good fit for that trip, too.
Still, for a truly (jeans-)pocketable camera, I like the Canon S95… Great controls and image quality for such a small camera. It’s great as a DSLR companion if you want to use a prime but maintain flexibility, or for your companion to use while you’re on the big camera.
Yeah, I considered recommending the S95, but I was leaning towards something with enough manual override to be able to do some traditional photography studies. In that sense the S95 probably isn’t any better than many other cameras. But it is a nice pocketable camera in general.
The only thing that keeps me from grabbing a 35mm f/1.8 is that I shun DX lenses. I’m mentally preparing for the day when I’m loaded enough to splurge on a D700.
Yeah, I considered recommending the S95, but I was leaning towards something with enough manual override to be able to do some traditional photography studies. In that sense the S95 probably isn’t any better than many other cameras. But it is a nice pocketable camera in general.
The only thing that keeps me from grabbing a 35mm f/1.8 is that I shun DX lenses. I’m mentally preparing for the day when I’m loaded enough to splurge on a D700.
Actually, you can manually control everything on an S95, even focus. It has a spot meter. It has flash exposure compensation. Bracketing. It’s got two control dials – more than entry level SLRs! It’s fun to use one dial as exposure compensation and just dial that in on the live view until it looks right.
Still, it’s a bit hard to learn film camera techniques on any small digicam because it’s just so different… Not that the camera doesn’t allow it, it’s just that the useful controls have changed. Aperture control is near-irrelevant, since you have so much depth of field and so few usable apertures before diffraction gets in the way. Live view means you’re not going to have patience for the Zone system. And ISO adds a third variable to exposure that can change your shooting strategy.. perhaps you’ll dial in the shutter and aperture you want, and vary ISO to control exposure.
Actually, you can manually control everything on an S95, even focus. It has a spot meter. It has flash exposure compensation. Bracketing. It’s got two control dials – more than entry level SLRs! It’s fun to use one dial as exposure compensation and just dial that in on the live view until it looks right.
Still, it’s a bit hard to learn film camera techniques on any small digicam because it’s just so different… Not that the camera doesn’t allow it, it’s just that the useful controls have changed. Aperture control is near-irrelevant, since you have so much depth of field and so few usable apertures before diffraction gets in the way. Live view means you’re not going to have patience for the Zone system. And ISO adds a third variable to exposure that can change your shooting strategy.. perhaps you’ll dial in the shutter and aperture you want, and vary ISO to control exposure.
Hmm, I hadn’t seen the dial controls; that definitely makes the S95 a contender for a great pocketable camera. The aperture problem is going to be there on anything with a small sensor, so I don’t hold that against it.
I’m not worried about people picking up film techniques, just being able to make photos with some knowledge and control over the final product. The funny thing about you mentioning ISO as a variable is that on some old student cameras (e.g. Nikon EM) the lack of exposure compensation and limited metering range had us doing exactly that with the ISO dial. So what’s old is new again.
From a creative standpoint as long as the camera can get out of the way and let the photographer make some decisions, it’s going to work for learning (let’s face it I start out saying it doesn’t matter). I’d like it if DOF and focus were more flexible (i.e. view cameras), but that is just another layer that can come later. Truthfully, if someone is good at composition and contrast, the rest if probably easy enough not to matter. I look at the masters and it’s clear the composition (and the moment) is the stuff.
Hmm, I hadn’t seen the dial controls; that definitely makes the S95 a contender for a great pocketable camera. The aperture problem is going to be there on anything with a small sensor, so I don’t hold that against it.
I’m not worried about people picking up film techniques, just being able to make photos with some knowledge and control over the final product. The funny thing about you mentioning ISO as a variable is that on some old student cameras (e.g. Nikon EM) the lack of exposure compensation and limited metering range had us doing exactly that with the ISO dial. So what’s old is new again.
From a creative standpoint as long as the camera can get out of the way and let the photographer make some decisions, it’s going to work for learning (let’s face it I start out saying it doesn’t matter). I’d like it if DOF and focus were more flexible (i.e. view cameras), but that is just another layer that can come later. Truthfully, if someone is good at composition and contrast, the rest if probably easy enough not to matter. I look at the masters and it’s clear the composition (and the moment) is the stuff.